You are a compensation consultant who has coached hundreds of successful salary negotiations.
My role: {{title, level, city}}
My three biggest wins this year: {{list them, with numbers if you have them}}
Current salary: {{amount}} — Target: {{amount}}
Build my case:
1. Realistic market range for my role and what end of it I can credibly claim.
2. My three wins, rewritten as employer value ("saved X", "unblocked Y").
3. A word-for-word script for the meeting: my opener, my number, and the silence after it.
4. Responses for the three most likely pushbacks — including "the budget is tight this year" — each with a fallback that still moves me forward (timeline commitment, scope change, off-cycle review).
Tone: warm, firm, zero apology.
You are a fee-only financial planner who explains everything in plain English and never sells products.
My situation:
- Age: {{age}} — hoping to retire around: {{age}}
- Income: {{amount}}/year — currently saving: {{amount or %}}
- Retirement savings so far: {{amount}}
- Big known costs ahead: {{kids, house, etc. — or "none"}}
Build my roadmap:
1. The realistic number I'd need at retirement (show the math simply).
2. Where I am vs. that path — ahead, behind, by how much.
3. The single change with the biggest impact, and the second-best.
4. Milestones for 1, 5, and 10 years I can write on a sticky note.
Rules: no jargon without a one-line translation, no product recommendations, be honest if my target age is unrealistic.
This is educational planning, not licensed financial advice — note where a professional should double-check.
You are a money coach who knows budgets fail from shame, not math.
My monthly take-home: {{amount}}
My fixed bills: {{list or estimate}}
Where the rest goes (honestly): {{food, fun, chaos — estimates fine}}
Build me:
1. A three-bucket budget (essentials / future-me / fun) with real numbers — fun is a protected line, not a leftover.
2. The two categories where I'm bleeding the most, and one painless-ish fix for each.
3. A 10-minute Sunday ritual to keep this alive (what to check, what to ignore).
4. What to do the week I blow it — the recovery move, not the guilt spiral.
No spreadsheets required, no "skip the latte" clichés.
Talk me through a big purchase before I commit.
What I want to buy: {{item}} — Price: {{amount}}
Why I want it: {{honest reason}}
My financial situation: {{comfortable / stretched}}
Run the checks: 1) COST PER USE — realistic uses over its life; what each use actually costs. 2) OPPORTUNITY COST — what else this money could do (debt, savings, an experience). 3) THE CHEAPER PATH — is there a used, rented, or lesser version that gets me 90%? 4) THE REGRET TEST — will I regret buying it, or regret NOT buying it, in a year? 5) A clear verdict: buy now, wait 30 days, or skip — with the reason. Don't just enable me.
You are a money coach who knows debt payoff is 20% math, 80% sticking with it.
My debts (balance, rate, minimum):
{{list them}}
What I can put toward debt monthly: {{amount}}
Build the plan: 1) TWO ORDERS — avalanche (highest rate first, saves most money) and snowball (smallest balance first, fastest wins). Show total interest and payoff date for each. 2) YOUR PICK for me and why, given that motivation matters. 3) The exact payment for each debt this month. 4) THE MILESTONES — the dates I'll clear each one, to put on the fridge. 5) One realistic move to free up more without misery.
You are a no-mercy personal finance auditor.
Here are my recurring charges (from my statement, messy is fine):
{{paste subscriptions and amounts}}
For each one:
1. Verdict: KEEP (I clearly use it), KILL (be honest with me), or NEGOTIATE (retention deals exist).
2. The math: what each kill saves per year — then the total, in a sentence designed to shock me.
3. For every NEGOTIATE: the exact chat/phone script, including the magic words ("I'm planning to cancel — are there any offers on my account?").
4. For every KILL: where the cancel button hides, if it's a known maze.
5. The one subscription I should probably ADD given what I keep (if any) — only if it replaces two others.
End with: total yearly savings, and what that money becomes in 5 years at 7%.
You are a practical financial coach.
My monthly essential expenses: {{amount or estimate}}
My income stability: {{steady job? freelance? one income?}}
Current savings: {{amount}} — What I can spare monthly: {{amount}}
Give me: 1) MY TARGET — how many months of essentials I actually need given my situation (not a generic '6 months'), with the dollar figure. 2) WHERE to keep it so it's safe and reachable but not tempting. 3) THE PLAN — a realistic monthly amount and the date I'd hit a starter fund (one month) then the full target. 4) What to pause (like extra debt payoff) while building the starter buffer, if anything.
You explain payslips in plain English.
Here's mine (or the line items I'm unsure about):
{{paste — remove any ID numbers}}
My country/region: {{for tax context}}
Explain: 1) GROSS TO NET — walk from what I earned to what I got, line by line, in plain words. 2) EACH DEDUCTION — what it is, roughly why, and whether the amount looks normal. 3) THE FLAGS — anything worth questioning with payroll or checking against my contract. 4) THE LEVERS — deductions I might actually control (retirement %, benefits, tax withholding). General guidance only — flag where a professional should confirm.
Help me get paid faster.
What I'm invoicing for: {{work, amount}}
Client relationship: {{new? ongoing? already late?}}
Give me: 1) THE INVOICE ESSENTIALS — what to include so there's no excuse to delay (clear line items, due date, payment methods, terms). 2) THE SEND-WITH MESSAGE — friendly, professional, sets the expectation. 3) THE FOLLOW-UP SEQUENCE — the exact wording for: day-of-due reminder, 3-days-late nudge, and the firm-but-kind 'this is now overdue' message with a consequence. 4) One clause to add to future invoices to prevent late payment.
You are a pricing consultant for freelancers who undercharge.
My work: {{what you do}}
Income I need per year (after tax, honestly): {{amount}}
Billable reality: {{days/week I can truly bill, weeks of holiday}}
What I charge now: {{rate, or "first time"}}
Do the math out loud:
1. My true required day rate (account for non-billable time, tax, slow months, software, sick days).
2. Compare to my current rate: what I'm actually paying myself per hour.
3. Market check: the realistic range for my work at my level.
4. THE NEW RATE — one number, defensible.
5. Script me saying it: to a new client, and the harder one — the rate-raise email to an existing client, with the grandfathering line.
No "it depends on value" hedging. Commit to numbers.
You are a consumer negotiation coach. People overpay because they don't know the dance.
What I'm buying/renewing: {{the thing}}
Their asking price: {{amount}} — What I've seen elsewhere: {{comps, or "help me find what to check"}}
My walk-away power: {{can I actually leave? alternatives?}}
Coach me:
1. THE REAL RANGE — what this actually sells for and what discount is normal to ask.
2. MY NUMBER — where to anchor, and why that exact number (odd numbers read as researched).
3. THE SCRIPT — my opener, their likely counter, my response, and where I stay silent.
4. THE EXTRAS — what to ask for when they won't move on price (delivery, warranty, fees waived, first month free).
5. THE WALK — the exact polite sentence for leaving, and why saying it often wins.
Rehearse me: play the salesperson for 3 exchanges.
You are a pragmatic business coach who's seen people leap too early and too late.
My side income: {{monthly, and how steady}}
My job income I'd give up: {{monthly, after tax}}
My savings/runway: {{amount}} — My essential monthly costs: {{amount}}
Analyze: 1) THE GAP — what my side income must reach to cover my real costs (remember: I lose benefits and pay my own tax). 2) THE RUNWAY — how many months my savings buy if I leap now. 3) THE TRIGGER — the specific milestone (income level, client count, months of buffer) that means it's actually safe, not just exciting. 4) THE BRIDGE — how to grow the gig while still employed. Be honest if I'm not close.
You are a family financial educator.
My kid: {{age}}
What prompted this: {{allowance? they want something? a teachable moment?}}
Give me: 1) THE CONCEPT to focus on at their age (needs vs wants / saving / earning / delayed gratification — pick what fits). 2) HOW TO EXPLAIN IT in words they'll get, with an analogy from their world. 3) ONE ACTIVITY we can actually do this week (a jar system, a small earning task, a saving goal). 4) THE MISTAKE parents make here to avoid. 5) What this sets up for the next stage. Keep it playful, not preachy.
You give balanced rent-vs-buy analysis, not dogma. Education only.
My situation: {{city, rough rent vs. likely mortgage, how long I'd stay, savings for a down payment, job stability}}
Reason it out: 1) THE TRUE COST OF BUYING — not just mortgage: taxes, maintenance (~1%/yr), insurance, closing costs, the opportunity cost of the down payment. 2) THE TRUE COST OF RENTING — including that rent buys flexibility and zero maintenance. 3) THE BREAK-EVEN — roughly how long I'd need to stay for buying to win here. 4) THE NON-MONEY FACTORS for my life. 5) A clear lean for MY situation, with the assumption that would flip it.
You explain personal taxes clearly for a non-expert. This is education, not filing advice.
My situation: {{country, employment type, rough income, big life stuff — kids, home, side income}}
Explain: 1) HOW MY TAX ACTUALLY WORKS — brackets vs. effective rate, what 'moving up a bracket' really means (spoiler: not what people fear). 2) WHAT'S TAXED vs. not in my situation. 3) THE LEGIT LEVERS — common deductions/credits/accounts I might be missing, in plain terms. 4) THE QUESTIONS to bring to a tax pro to make that hour count. Flag clearly where rules vary and a professional should confirm.